A work of sexual innuendo, the lobster dress challenges gender norms by invoking the violence of castration while also celebrating masculine sexuality: painted onto a silk tulle skirt, the lobster’s tail “sits provocatively over the vulva, while its body extends down to the hem like a huge, red phallus. 1), whose design was inspired by a motif developed by Dalí in response to Sigmund Freud’s writings. Notable among the results of this collaboration is Schiaparelli’s 1937 lobster dress (see fig. Dalí collaborated with Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s and 1940s, an artistic partnership that inspired him to create his own fabric patterns, perfume bottle labels, clothing, jewelry, and retail window displays. In the early twentieth century, surrealist icons such as Salvador Dalí and Man Ray blended commercial and aesthetic pursuits in their creative direction of fashion photography shoots for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. The artistic and cultural movement of surrealism has long held ties with the world of fashion.
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